Venice Notes
Notes, essays, and sideways stories from Venice.

Latest

01
Apr
The Orto Giardino del Santissimo Redentore

The Orto Giardino del Santissimo Redentore

There is a moment, after crossing to Giudecca, when Venice becomes quieter. The noise drops, the pace slows, and the city feels more distant. The entrance to the garden is almost hidden.
2 min read
01
Apr
Holding Shape at Signor Blum

Holding Shape at Signor Blum

Some places don’t need to be reinvented. They ask to be continued.
2 min read
31
Mar
Osteria Giorgione — The Quiet Kitchen of Masa

Osteria Giorgione — The Quiet Kitchen of Masa

To find a treasure you usually have to dig a little. Look carefully. Be ready for something unexpected. Venice often works like that.
3 min read
01
Mar
Food Notes — al Covino

Food Notes — al Covino

Al Covino is a very small, intimate restaurant in the Castello district, set in a beautiful and slightly hidden area. It lies along the route toward the Biennale, but remains outside the main tourist flows.
2 min read
01
Mar
Essay —The Room of the Four Doors

Essay —The Room of the Four Doors

The Room of the Four Doors appears suddenly, early in the visit. It is so overwhelming that, paradoxically, most people move on after only a few minutes. The instinct is to look up, toward the recently restored ceiling — now bright, almost white, and strangely magnetic.
4 min read
01
Mar
Quiet Routes — S. Anna, S. Pietro and S. Isepo

Quiet Routes — S. Anna, S. Pietro and S. Isepo

Quiet Routes are simple walks through the quieter parts of Venice — canals, small campi and courtyards where the city still moves at its own pace. Today’s route begins near the Giardini, passes through Sant’Anna, reaches San Pietro di Castello and ends in Sant’Isepo.
3 min read